If the ugliness of Kottbusser Tor sends you stumbling down the first available street then you could do worse than roll up outside the tiled exterior of Dresdener Str 126. It might look like a shabby city-council swimming pool but the dirty yellow Babylon sign marks one of Kreuzberg's most popular cinemas.

The door handles form a spiral motif that is repeated in lights on the ceiling of Screen A. As the lights dim, forget the soft orange toilets and ugly foyer, and enjoy the latest OV film. Screen B is tiny and not particularly soundproof but even so, the strong programme draws people from all over town leaving a clutter of bikes outside on the pavement.