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Tempelhofer Feld: Elysian (air)field

Only recently opened to the public as the city’s largest park, Tempelhof airfield offers more than Nazi bullies and Kaiser’s A&P Summer Rave. Go and see for yourself…

Image for Tempelhofer Feld: Elysian (air)field
Photo by Adam Kahan

Only recently opened to the public as the city’s largest park, the abandoned Tempelhof airfield offers more than Nazi bullies in Hitler t-shirts and Kaiser’s A&P Summer Rave. Go for a run around the field and see for yourself…

The vast emptiness of the expanse and its open skies (a stunning canvas for fluffy-clouded sunsets) may seem overwhelming at first, especially with the ghostly Tempelhof Airport – one part of Albert Speer’s Germania blueprints – lurking at the far end. But then you notice the signs: here there’s a “Dog Run”; a minute further on, a “German Weather Station” next to a “Bird-Breeding Habitat”; and, finally, the designated “BBQ Area”. All neatly explained in English, on bright-red signposts – a nod to the airport’s American past as the site of Berlin’s historic airlift?

Even more impressive is the range of autonomous recreational use, even on mellow weekdays: joggers, rollerbladers, skateboarders and bikers spread out across the asphalt, but there’s still plenty of space for a game of inline hockey. Nearby, families are flying kites and some middle-aged geeks their model planes. By the time you reach the Biergarten, you’ll be sucking wind – circling the field requires advanced jogging skills – so take a break for a beer. This place has potential!