Photo by Jason Harrell
It's February, the days are grey and slushy and you're just looking for someone to give you a big, doughy hug. What you need are Polish dumplings! From retro to bio, we've scoped three places where you can find handmade pierogis in Berlin.
Owned and operated by Polish expats (and husband-and wife), Sebastian and Roma Barticzka, the homey Schmeckerei Pierogi is an unpretentious and authentic family business. Open only during breakfast and lunch hours, their bistro offers 16 different combinations of pierogi fillings, from the classic cheese and potato to pumpkin and sauerkraut, or even sweet pierogis made with fresh, in-season fruit. €6.50 gets you five pierogis topped with rosemary oil and Polish yoghurt, their soup of the day (like red lentil Mondays or curry cauliflower Thursdays) and a salad, making it one of the cheapest spots to get your pierogi fix. KC
The Poles are indeed taking over Brunnenstraße. Last November, amid much Facebook hullabaloo, this “Polish deli” opened in the slick space previously inhabited by Noodeli pasta bar. Handmade pierogi are the main attraction, with three veggie fillings which appeal to today's food-conscious Mitte dweller: sauerkraut-mushroom, potato-cottage-cheese-Parmesan, beetroot-goat-cheese-caper-horseradish. The only meat option is distinctly un-Polish: turkey, sun-dried tomato and feta. They come in portions of seven (€5.90) or ten (€7.90), you can mix and match flavours and they are served with a juicy sour pickle and smothered in sour cream and crispy fried onions. They're on the mushy side and all sort of taste the same due to the drenching in sour cream, but they're all equally satisfying to those with a hearty appetite. We'll return for the bigos (€6.40), Poland's national dish, a stew of meat and wild forest mushrooms and other “crazy stuff”, according to the young, friendly, English-speaking Polish lady at the counter. SG
In her retro-looking cafe/restaurant, matronly Polish expat Lidia Kozlowska has been serving her homemade dumplings for over five years now. Pierogies come six to a plate, big doughy parcels glistening with melted butter and caramelised onions, filled with pork, cheese and potatoes or sauerkraut and mushrooms (€6.50). That plus a wide range of Polish soups and back-room concerts by local bands should be enough to make this a Wedding winter must-try. JS