One of the newest and most controversial Holocaust memorials in Europe is also one of the most photogenic. At the beginning of the century, much was made of the cost (€24.6 million, including the exhibition beneath), the companies that provided the materials, and the fact that it is dedicated only to the Jews. Lea Rosh, the outspoken publicist who began the campaign to build it in 1989, had to take quite a few brick bats.

But the Field of Stelae has become an enduring and well-visited new landmark in Berlin, though the people who like it most are boisterous teenagers who have to be prevented from skipping across the tops of the concrete blocks. The anonymous stelae are echoed in the small exhibition beneath, where the main intention is to personalise the Holocaust. The individual fates of victims are preserved in photos and personal letters sent from concentration camps. In one room the names of those who died are projected against the wall and the barest details of their forgotten lives are told in sonorous voiceover (in German and English). The historical recounting of the escalation of the Holocaust from its beginnings in 1933 is equally emotive, but this also adds a narrative structure.