It is a sign of the times that traditional German Essen has become as much a type of concept food as any international cuisine.
Schneeweiss has been branded Alpenküche, but only the amusing Alpine wallpaper in the bathrooms and the odd silver deer candle holder nod to the theme. A spacious room with neon lighting bordering the skirting panels, a snazzy bar and white orchids on the tables, the all-white interior is contemporary without being clinical, and provides a most pleasant setting for a perfect dining experience.
The cocktail list was impressive, but the two that we ordered as an aperitif, including the ‘Snow White’ house cocktail were both worryingly acidic. The food, fortunately, was there to soothe our stomachs and fly the flag triumphantly for German cuisine. The warm goat cheese tart with juicy, crunchy peppers and the tender pink Lammspieße (skewered lamb) on a forest of salad were both delicious. Then came the seasonal classic – a jumbo Wiener Schnitzel with white asparagus and Holländische Sauce, so palatable that we ate every crumb of it – quite a feat given its humongous size!
Fans of fresh water fish will enjoy the plump Zanderfilet, which came with dumplings, vegetables and a flavourful tomato ragout. Dessert claimed to be an orange and chili tart with chocolate mousse, but it was definitely lemon and worth the misunderstanding. The staff are young and friendly, and as far as local neighbourhood restaurants go, Schneeweiss is a great place to eat out. The long table in the middle of the room is spacious enough for the seven dwarves to dine their dates before whiling the weekend away in the friendly Kiez.