The soundtrack at Domu Nosta is vinyl records, played in their entirety. In this airy, stylish space facing Kollwitzplatz, one cannot simply listen to ‘Rocket Man’ without also hearing every single one of the greatest hits of Elton John, 1970-1974. That’s a clue as to what you can expect from Laura Molteni and Alessandro Saiu’s ambitious Sardinian venture, an outlier among its casual-dining neighbours.
Those looking for a slice of pizza and an Aperol spritz have come to the wrong address. Like an LP, a meal here requires a certain level of commitment: to a lengthy evening on the leafy square, to no fewer than two of Saiu’s dishes, and to a minimum bill of €39/person before Sardinian wine, Belgian-style craft beer from the island brewery Mezzavia or the obligatory crispy flatbread pane carasau enter the equation.
You get loads of commitment in return, both from Saiu, an experienced chef from near Cagliari, and Molteni, a Milanese former design journalist-turned-Berlin restaurateur. Having opened the place on the cursed date of March 13, 2020, the couple are still eager to prove themselves. You can sense it in their effusive hospitality and taste it in the ultra-composed plates, which hover between the rustic cuisine eaten by Sardinia’s natives and the fancier fare served in touristy coastal towns.
A starter of cornmeal-crusted octopus resembles the island’s flag, with wasabi-pea puree forming the cross and trout roe, mayo, paprika and half a red onion standing in for the controversial “Four Moors”. Tartare di manzo takes the form of a division symbol, with a slash of truffle mayo separating the toothsome, hand-cut beef tartare from a rose of roasted peppers. The pasta, on the other hand, is as simple as it should be – don’t skip the homemade malloreddus, little gnocchi-like blobs with a ribbed surface that’s the perfect vehicle for a thick ragu of Brandenburg wild boar. Look out for specials like spaghetti with bottarga; the grated dried fish roe delicacy is rarely put to better use than it is here. By the time you end your meal, preferably with a platter of variously aged pecorino cheeses and honey from Saiu’s home village, you’ll be planning your next trip to Sardinia – and you’ll have gained a new appreciation for ‘70s deep cuts.
- Domu Nosta, Knaackstr. 45, Prenzlauer Berg, Tue-Sat 18:00-23:00