Previously a pop-up bread ‘n’ beer event, Brot & Zeit has now settled in a beautiful pre-war apartment under the name of The Parlour Dinners, a Thursday-night supper club that aims to put a neue twist on good ol’ deutsche Küche. Diners convene in what is usually the showroom and home of furniture designer cum amateur chef Laurin Hackney, and the six dining tables are all for sale. A complimentary glass of softly bubbling cava was served alongside bread with unsalted butter and lard with cranberries, keeping us occupied while the diners steadily arrived.
The three-course dinner began with a salad composed of lightly pickled celeriac, fried mushrooms and bitter greens like rocket and radicchio. The main course was a potato-coated pork served on savoy cabbage and bacon in clear gravy. We finished off our meal with a berry terrine clad in marzipan drizzled with milk foam.
Too bad the portions were rather small, the cabbage overcooked, and the main course left a lingering taste of Maggi bullion cube in our mouths. For €30, not including wine (two reds and two whites at either €4 or €5, bottles for €13 or €19) or water, we were not impressed. But if exclusivity and ambience are enough to feed your hunger, and you’re after a nice glass of wine in gregarious company – Parlour will hit the spot!